Carven has taken a designer from Saint Laurent — and is trying to come back to life again

Carven has appointed Kai Nesselrath as design director, succeeding Mark Thomas, who left the French house in April. Nesselrath will present his debut runway collection at Paris Fashion Week spring/summer 2027 in October.

“A new generation’s perspective on the world feels especially important today,” said Shawna Tao, CEO of Carven, part of China’s ICCF Group. “The essence of Carven is a fresh and courageous creator’s spirit, and we believe Kai is uniquely suited to interpret and express it.”

Born and raised in Rome, Nesselrath graduated from Polimoda in Florence in 2015, had a stint at Chanel, and then spent almost a decade at Saint Laurent, rising to head designer of womenswear.

The inheritance is complicated. In early 2018 the company filed for bankruptcy and was later acquired by China’s Icicle Group, since rebranded as ICCF Group. The creative churn is just as striking: Guillaume Henry led the house from 2009 to 2014, followed by co-creative directors Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud, who left in 2016, then Serge Ruffieux, who departed in 2018 after three seasons. Louise Trotter was creative director from February 2023 until December 2024, when she left for Bottega Veneta. Mark Thomas was promoted to the top job in March 2025 with the title of design director.

“Kai’s appointment marks an important step in Carven’s revival initiated in 2023,” the house said. “The ambition is to reconnect with the house’s founding vision from 1945: a distinctly French and inclusive approach to fashion, built on uncompromising creativity, product excellence and relevance to modern life.”

“Excited to join Carven, with lightness and optimism,” Nesselrath said. “I love clothes, spaces, and conversations that encourage breathing. It’s an honor to keep Madame Carven’s values alive.”