Armani Privé: the second couture collection without Armani
Beaded blazers, muted leopard and evening gowns with long trains. And behind it all, a will requiring 15% of the group to be sold within eighteen months.
Giorgio Armani Privé showed shimmering gowns and roomy suits in dusky tones in Paris. It is the second haute couture show since Armani died in September last year, with the womenswear creative director role passing to his niece Silvana Armani.
The show took place in the ornate rooms of the Palazzo Armani, in the designer shopping quarter near Avenue Montaigne. Models glided past in textured satin bomber jackets, velvet suits in burgundy and navy blue, and long flowing coats with large lapels.
Beaded blazers were paired with sheer lace tops and fluid trousers. Leopard print runs through the collection, but in muted greys, blues and browns, on jackets and tops.
Evening gowns in deep green and blue were draped and intricately beaded with long trains; some had a mock cardigan thrown over the shoulders.
The house is in a transitional phase. Its founder died at 91, and his will instructed heirs to gradually sell the fashion house or take it public. The sale of an initial 15% stake must take place within 12 to 18 months of his death. The will named LVMH, EssilorLuxottica and L’Oréal as his preferred buyers.
The Paris autumn-winter haute couture shows run until Thursday, with runway outings from labels including Dior, Chanel, Balenciaga and Schiaparelli.